Weekend wonder - Ladhar Bheinn, Knoydart

Published in Adventure Travel magazine as part of regular material I created for their ‘Weekend Wonders’ feature.

Scrambling the south-east ridge of Ladhar Bheinn, with Coire Dhorrcail on the right

Ladhar Bheinn is one of my favourite Scottish mountains – partly because it is only accessible by boat or by foot. Getting there usually involves travelling 9km by boat from Mallaig to the small settlement of Inverie (popularly known as the home of Scotland's most remote mainland pub) or hiking around 13km of rough terrain from Kinloch Hourn, itself accessed via 35km drive along a single-track road.

I've climbed Ladhar Bheinn three times. I’m not a person of the mind that once a hill is climbed it's ticked off. Some hills deserve repeat ascents and I like to approach them from different sides and take time to explore the mountain. My first ascent of Ladhar Bheinn was from Inverie. We'd headed for Mam Barrisdale before breaking off up steep, fern-covered slopes onto the curious feature split ridge of Aonach Sgoilte. My second was during a four-day backpack of all the Munros in Knoydart, when we reached Aonach Sgoilte after first climbing two nearby Corbetts, Beinn na Caillich and Sgurr Coire Choinnichean. Both visits were in excellent weather and we savoured the warmth of the sun and some great views as we scrambled up the north-west ridge of Ladhar Bheinn to its summit.

My last visit to Ladhar Bheinn was in 2017. Clad in waterproofs, hat and gloves to combat the cold Spring weather, we hiked the classic route up the mountain, a route which navigates the horseshoe-shaped rim of Coire Dhorrcail. The headwall of this great mountain corrie is ringed with crags and enclosed by two great, narrow, steep-sided ridges, Stob a' Chearcaill and Stob a’ Choire Odhair. Although the Knoydart peninsula is known as the 'rough bounds' for the wild nature of its terrain, the ground isn't too challenging and we gained height quickly ."What an awesome location", I recall saying as we crested the corrie headwall and broke out onto Ladhar Bheinn's north-west ridge.

Ladhar Bheinn's summit flanks provide a fantastic viewpoint. As well as the views over Loch Hourn, you can see south-east to the neighbouring Munros, Luinne Bheinn and Meall Bhuide, and west out over the Corbett of Sgurr Coire Choinnichean towards Mallaig. Ladhar Bheinn's rocky north-west ridge is also great fun, with a few Grade 1 scrambling opportunities but nothing overly technical or exposed. There's also the opportunity stand on an obvious prow of rock halfway up that overhangs a drop of several hundred feet and has great views down Loch Hourn. It's quite a special place.

Getting there

Take the train, bus or drive from Fort William to Mallaig. A ferry at the port (www.calmac.co.uk and others) will sail you across the lower Sound of Sleat to Inverie. Alternatively, drive the A82 from Fort William and head for Invergarry. Turn onto the A87 and, not long after, follow the singletrack road west past Loch Garry and Loch Quoich to reach Kinloch Hourn.

Where to stay

Outside the comforts of Inverie (where you'll find B&Bs, a hotel and bunkhouse plus luxury self-catering accommodation), there are three overnight options for climbing Ladhar Bheinn. You can wild camp almost anywhere, courtesy of Scotland's refreshing outdoor access code, or stay in one of two private bothies nearby, Barisdale bothy or Druim bothy. Neither is maintained by the Mountain Bothy Association and both charge a fee for accommodation, with Druim requiring booking in advance.

More information: http://www.visitknoydart.co.uk

Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 33 (Loch Alsh, Glen Shiel and Loch Hourn)