Mountain Equipment Citadel - A synthetic insulated belay jacket to keep you warm in Scottish Winter
July 2023 update - The Citadel I’d propose remains the benchmark warm jacket for UK and Scottish Winter. In 2023 it uses Primaloft’s latest technology, Primaloft Gold, and the outer fabric is Goretex Infinium, which I’ve found to be excellent in a Mountain Eauipment Prophet jacket I have (it’s very windproof - Infinium I understand being a rebrand of Gore Windstopper). Mountain Equipment have employed that same technology in their Fitzroy jacket, which along with its increased insulation (120gm Primaloft Gold) makes it worthy of consideration as well.
I spend a lot of time outside in Scotland’s Winter season photographing athletes participating in outdoor and adventure sports activities. When doing so, I like a jacket that I know will keep me warm as, despite Scotland not having the coldest temperatures, it's easy to be miserable outdoors.
During the Scottish winter season, the mountain thermometer commonly fluctuates between -5 and +5 degrees C, which is not cold in itself but, when you add on strong winds and freezing rain, hypothermia can be a real threat.
The world's best insulator I understand, outside animal fur, is goose down. If you're operating at high altitude or in the cold regions of the earth many experts say there is nothing better. Scotland's maritime climate however can kill down feathers in a matter of minutes and what was once a light and fluffy and warm layer of clothing becomes an non-insulating soggy mess - even beneath a water-resistant shell - and can be dangerously ineffective.
Whilst goose down is still useful for e.g. sleeping bags, synthetic insulation such as Primaloft is a more sensible approach for insulated clothing in maritime climates (being generally lighter, warmer and more functional than the ubiquitous fleece for the same weight). Over the years, I've had a number of synthetically insulated jackets, including a Patagonia DAS parka, a Cloudveil Enclosure jacket and a North Face Redpoint Optimus (oh, and a Wild Things belay jacket, two Berghaus Infinity Pros, a Berghaus Asylum Belay Parka, a Haglofs Barrier Zone Hoody, a Patagonia Nano Puff, a Rab Generator smock, a Rab Xenon X Hoody plus a Mountain Equipment Prophet). I've not outworn them all - I had a tendency in the past to trade jackets in needlessly when I thought something 'better' came along - but I reckon I've used the type long enough to be confident I can pass opinion on them.
My current 'I always take it' jacket for Scottish winter (which I will wear out as it is excellent) is Mountain Equipment's Citadel jacket. It has kept me warm in the Scottish mountains but also in Patagonia, below freezing in Spain and the Alps, as well as on a cold West Highlands hillside during an unexpected Winter's night out.
For warmth in damp and cold conditions when static I'd suggest the Citadel has been unrivalled the last few years (Montane did offer a Spitfire model for a while with similar specs, that was designed by UK climber and mountaineer and winter specialist Andy Kirkpatrick). The Citadel is not the lightest insulated jacket you'll carry (a size L weighs in at 890g) and it's too warm for me to walk in for any great distance but when I need to stop in winter weather for a long period of time and retain body heat, it's absolutely excellent.
What I like about the Mountain Equipment Citadel jacket
200g of Primaloft’s premier, highly-insulating and water-resistant wadding (2023 - Primaloft Gold)
Elasticated back helps stop cold spots
Thick insulated hood
Big zips and zip pull - Small zips may be lighter but I’ve always found them to be a weak spot on a jacket
Large inside pocket - I place a Nalgene bottle filled with hot water in it for a ready-made hot water bottle
Repairability - Mine's has a big 'L' shaped rip on one of the front pockets courtesy of a careless dry cleaner in Punta Arenas in southern Chile in 2013. Down insulation would have exploded everywhere but I fixed it easily with McNett Tenacious Tape (an excellent product for repairs - the same strips are still on my jacket in 2023, despite multiple washes)
It’s sized to fit over everything else. The original Mountain Equipment Citadel I bought was small in its size, which I thought was odd for a belay jacket (climbers wear these type of jackets over all their clothes for warmth at a belay). Mountain Equipment's customer service however was excellent and I received a new one by return.
What would I change?
Both velcro wrist straps have ripped off, presumably due to poor stitching
I'd remove the stretchy wrist gaskets - they get soaking wet and take longer to dry out than the jacket
When not wearing a helmet, I'd prefer the front collar of the jacket to be taller when zipped up so it covered more of my face (An early model of the Haglofs Barrier Zone Hoody jacket I had - sadly discontinued - had the best hood I've ever had on an insulated jacket)
Alternatives
PHD Zeta - Also developed in partnership with Andy Kirkpatrick. Very expensive but can be customised to fit.
Rab Generator Alpine - Less insulation at 133gm (see also Patagonia’s DAS parka)
Mountain Equipment Fitzroy - Similar to the Citadel but 80gm less insulation which may be useful if you feel you don’t need to be as warm or you want to wear it on the move (see also PHD Epsilon)